Hi Kirsti

Just got your message; thanks for that. You already know that I'm on my way home and should be back Wed am. Been a great trip and can't wait to return next year and get it done; as well as Hunter and maybe Foraker; who knows?

Back to the chaos soon!!

Love to all xxx

Well I have to say that my Denali adventure has come to an end. Yesterday I returned to Kalteekna having been unsuccesful in my attempt to find a partner to climb the mountain.

On my arrival to base camp I knew that I had made the right decision to go. the flight over the mountains has to be one of the most impressive that I have ever experienced; even comparing the Himalayas and the Andes; pictures will not do this place justice!

The first night I thought that at 'only' 2200 mts it wouldnt be that cold...wrong!! It was minus 30 degs C had to wear thermals in my bag; never had to do that all the time I spent on Everest.

The following morning I was fortunate to meet Ben he is a local guy who was spending some time on Denali solo;he also was looking to hook up with someone. Although he didnt have a permit to climb high on the mountain. He agreed to join me for a few days so we packed our kit and headed on up the mountain; this was my first experience of pulling a sled; getting a rythem going is super-important. On the way up to the first camp Ben was pointing out to me the dangers of the many crevasses that the trail crosses by the the formation of ice bridges; some of these are less than two feet wide. I was starting to question the logic of making a solo attempt; especially considering my lack of knowledge about the mountain. Ben suggested that I forget the idea.

We found a spot to pitch tents for the night; but before we could do this; Ben had to probe the area making sure we were not going to pitch our tents over a crevsasse. To do this safely Ben and I remain roped up just in case he fell into a crevasse; this made me think more about climbing the mountain solo.I spent another night wearing thermals; it was cold outside.

The following day after breakfast; I decided to move up to the next camp and cache some supplies with the view to returning to BC and waiting to see if I could join a group. On the way we met two Brits who I thought would make ideal climbing companions but they were wearing skies as opposed to snow shoes which meant that they would move much quicker than me up the mountain plus they had a different itinerary to mine; drew a blank there!After spending another night on the mountain the following day we headed back to BC.

Life at BC changes everyday with new groups coming in and then heading on up the mountain; others use BC as a base to climb the many routes and mountains nearby; it's certainly not all about climbing Denali.

Everyday Ben and I headed of to either climb some smaller mountasins or just to trek along the huge glaciers. Again without Ben I wouldnt have been able to do this because of the crevasses; we were always roped up as soon as we left camp; the day we climbed Frances was when I experienced the value of climbing roped up with a partner.

For me the climb up Frances was a whole new experience at least 600 mts of snow and ice using ice axes and wearing crampons the exposure was stunning! We arrived at a snow field just below the summit and I was following Ben when my left foot went into a crevasse; I went in up to my waist with my right foot supporting me;as I shouted over to Ben I was wondering if my right foot hold would be able to take my weight when I tried to push my way out. I could see the crevasse when I looked down; it was deep; couldnt see the bottom. No need to tell you what my heart was doing!I knew that Ben had me on the rope and I could see that my right foot was in line with the crevasse edge and running in the same direction so I managed to push up on that foot and move away from the crevasse; only another 4 inches to the left and I would have gone in. As we looked into the crevasse I threw a piece of ice into it and started to count; 10 seconds; nothing 15 seconds still nothing; who knows how deep it was!! Another wake up call about doing a solo attempt; I knew then that it would be stupid.

So we spent the full week exploring the area, having to boil water from snow and ice to cook food and make drinks; you have to be totally self sufficient to survive on Denali as there are no porters or cooks; this is what life in the moutains is all about.

As each day passed without being able to join a team my; food supply was starting to dwindle; most of it was cached up the mountain; I was starting to realise that this was not going to be my year. I was getting very fit climbing and treking everyday with Ben but without a partner it was meaningless. I decided to leave with Ben and told a group where to find my cache of food and fuel; they were greatful for that.The night before we were due to leave there was a major problem happening higher up on Denali.

Two Chinook helicopters landed a BC and another smaller helicopter flew in carrying a dead climber he was hanging from a rope underneathe it. At first I thought he might have been unconcious; sadly; he was dead; another climber was brought in with a broken leg. It seems they had a fall and their guide went for help; the weather changed and one climber died due to the extreme cold. A lesson to all about how unforgiving life on mountains can be when things go wrong!!

My experience here has been all positive; I know that when I return next year with the right partner that for me (given the usual conditions; good health and weather) Denali is do-able. It's a truly amazing place; sometimes it's not all about the goal; the journey to it can be more important. This (for me) has been part of that journey.

Best wishes to all

Steve

Ok Arrived in Kalteekna; the weather is cold but sunny and dry; a good start! Unable to find anyone to hook up with but I have been told that yesterday there were about 100 people at BC. So my plan is to go to BC tomorrow and see if I can join a group leaving tomorrow; failing that; I am going to assess the conditions with the view to going solo; but keeping close to other climbers. There are two French climbers staying at my hostel who told me the path is easy to follow; as long as the visibility remains good; most of the crevasses are low down and the path is marked with wands; I will suck it and see. The French guys failed to summit; one was suffering with the effects of altitude and they were forced to decend!!

So; thats the plan; I have all the equipment with me and a lot of experience; just need to stay healthy and have good weather; although; I am convinced I will be able to join a team!

Steve

Morning all; I'm all set to leave for Kalteekna by bus; the journey takes about three hours. I have been told that there is mobile reception in Kalteekna but none at Base Camp and beyond; so things may go quiet for some time. I'll know better when I get there.
I have an interview with the Park Ranger when I arrive in Kalteekna this is mandatory before they allow you to fly into BC. I am hoping that they may be able to give me some contacts; anyhow I will hang around town until I find a suitable group or partner; starting to feel like a hobo!!!

I see that the Global H2O link has been added to the home page(thanks Daniel) take a look at the site and see what great things Jamie is achieving; and if you can; please offer some help.

More from Kalteekna soon

Steve

Hi arrived in Anchorage and managed to find the hostel; the place seems quiet but I don't mind: should get a good nights shut eye! Tomorrow I will get all my supplies together and then head up to Kalteekna on Thurs morning. I think I will have a better chance to hook up with a climbing team from there; the hostel owner has told me that there are a couple of teams already in Kalteekna so I will turn on the Geordie charm and see if that does the trick. Watch this space!!!

Steve