Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet, as well as many other less frequently climbed routes. Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953 and the first recognised of fifteen routes to the top by 1996. This was, however, a route decision dictated more by politics than by design as the Chinese border was closed to foreigners in 1949. Reinhold Messner (Italy) summited the mountain solo for the first time, without supplementary oxygen or support, on the more difficult Northwest route via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, on August 20th 1980. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters. This route has been noted as the 8th climbing route to the summit

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 15.03.07 @ 12:01pm

Steve and Gary have been undergoing intensive training for the Everest attempt. In January along with regular forays into the Lake District,Snowdonia and the Brecons, Steve and Gary climbed Aconcagua situated near the Argentinean/Chilean border, which at 6962 metres is the highest peak outside of Asia. Since then they have been keeping up the tempo with exercises such as a traverse of the Ben Nevis Massif and regular rock and ice climbing such as the Cadair Idris-Cyfwry Arete which is rated VDiff. They are out trekking on a daily basis along with weight training and more "normal" type exercising they intend to be as fit as possible when the time comes to leave for Tibet.

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 22.03.07 @ 08:11am

Final week of training starts Monday 26th of March, last week Steve and co were in the Langdales - see the Gallery. Also, Steve has been presented with 'Brian' a small teddy bear by Emily Collingwood aged 11 yrs who lives on a farm in Rookhope. Emily wants Brian to go to Everest with Steve; as a lucky mascot! Brian lives at Rookhope school in County Durham. The school are going to follow the progress of the expedition.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 26.03.07 @ 08:41am

Here is the itinery from Steve :
3rd April depart Heathrow 4th arrive Kathmandu 5-6th sorting permits kit, etc in KTM 7th fly to Llasa 8-9th in Llasa 10-13th tfr to Base Camp 14-16th at BC 17th Intermediate camp 18th Advance base camp 19 April-25th May - climbing period We are climbing the North Ridge known as 'The Climbers Route'there will be 6 camps in total; BC - Intermediate - ABC - Camp 1(North Col) - Camp 2 - Camp 3 Then the summit!!!!!! we will start to acclimatise on our arrival in Llasa and this will continue (slowly and gradually) until we arrive at Camp 1. Then it's down to the weather and staying healthy!

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 28.03.07 @ 15:35pm

28th March - Last Training day on the Cheviots - check out Brian conquering the mighty Cheviot

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 29.03.07 @ 11:59am

Counting down now - training finished apart from acclimatisation, Steve and Gary are supremely fit now, only odds and ends of equipment to sort out - have your say on the blog, wish them well - they will appreciate the support!

Posted by Dave on Friday, 30.03.07 @ 19:17pm

Some personal thoughts from Gary:

About Everest

For me Everest is not an ambition or a challenge, not all the time.
Sometimes she is a burden on my heart.
My inner spirit tells me there is something at the summit for me; it tells me I must go to see if I am there.
I cannot ignore my inner spirit again.
I will trust and respect her during our short affair.
I hope that we will be friends and that she will be kind to me and let me go safely, so that I may return and visit her again.
My life will never be the same after her.
Gary Parker

and a letter to Everest in the traditional way of Tibet

Oh Chomolungma,goddess mother of earth.
I have looked upon you and I have stood at your doorstep, but we have not yet spoken.
I will come to see you again soon, but this time I will live on your slopes.
I hope you will take my hand and lead me to your summit.
Maybe then we can talk awhile.
I hope you will like me and I hope you will care for me.
Most of all I hope you will allow me to come home again,so that I may come and visit you again.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 2.04.07 @ 09:45am

Steve and Gary leave today for Kathmandu - they will attempt to keep us posted with news as long as communications allow.

Theoretically making a phone call from the summit of Everest has become possible thanks to a mobile base station installed in China that has line of sight to the north side of the mountain.

The downside is that staying in contact with this base station demands that climbers follow the north ridge to the top - generally regarded as the toughest route.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 3.04.07 @ 10:19am

06:00 04/04/07
Steve and Gary in Muscat waiting to board next flight to Kathamandu.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 4.04.07 @ 09:24am

05/04/07 Message from Steve

Arrived Kathmandu yesterday, starting to get into Everest mode now!
Had a bit of luck on the London Muscat leg, they upgraded us to business class, the only way to travel, food excellent service first class. However, the second leg, back in cattle class, thats life!
Staying in the hotel Malla here in Kathmandu, great place might as well enjoy the last few days of luxury before we hit base camp.
We are due to leave here 7th and head for Llasa, so I'll keep in touch from Llasa as well.
Gary is out with Krishna (our leader) sorting out permits and provisions for base camp, while I am sorting out my own personal gear, what stuff to leave here.

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 5.04.07 @ 08:08am

Tomorrow (6th) the team will get together to be blessed by the Lama.

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 5.04.07 @ 12:39pm

Report in 06/04/07 15:03 GMT

Steve and Gary will be accompanied on their ascent by two high altitude Sherpas one of whom :Pemba Dorje currently holds the record for the quickest ascent of Everest at 8Hrs 10mins and who also managed two ascents in five days - pretty hot eh!!
Lets see if he can keep up with Brian!!!

Posted by Dave on Friday, 6.04.07 @ 15:13pm

Report in 06/04/07 15:03 GMT

Pictures in from the Blessing Ceremony - see Gallery. Steve and Gary and all were on Nepalese TV today, they have been asked to take a human rights flag to the summit

Posted by Dave on Friday, 6.04.07 @ 16:09pm

News from Gary :::
Thurs 5th April - I was introduced to our Sherpa's. We have two sherpa's who are just with Steve and I. they are Pasang and Lila and Lila has summited Everest twice once from north and once from south. Pasang is younger (early twenties) and nearly got to the summit last year. They have both been recomended by my nepalese friend and sherpa Krishna Tamang. I have climbed a few times with Krishna and I trust him implicitly. Krishna and his friend, Pemba Dorje are our agents in Kathmandu and are making all the arrangements for us and a Japanese team of 3 with whom we are sharing base camp facilities. The Japanese team have their own direct Sherpa team then, as with us Krishna and Pemba are also background sherpas. I would mention that Krishna has summitted Everest twice and Pemba I think 4 times. Pemba also holds three world record ascents on Everest inc fastest ascent and
shortest time between two ascents. I think we are in good company!!!!
Fri 6th April - We were up early to go with our sherpas to a Llama ( a
buddhist sort of holy man) who blessed us personally, our prayer flags
and our expedition. It lasted about an hour and I cetainly found it a moving experience. Made me realise just how big this thing is and the risks involved.
But I think with respect for the mountain and a strong committment we
will be succesful.
All in all Steve and I thought that things were going our way.
Later in the day Krishna approached me and asked if we would place a
flag on the summit for the Human Rights & Peace society of Nepal and act as sponsors for a meeting that afternoon. Next thing was a call to say the press had got hold of it and wanted us (Steve, myself and our 2 sherpas) to go to the meeting, now in about an hour, and receive the flag. We did this and discovered a crowd of people were supporting it. Steve has sent you the pic of us on the stage with the flag. Much to Steves amusement I had suddenly realised that I may have to say something and had gone very quiet. "no pressure then" Steve
said. I just looked at him!!
Anyway I did say something very short starting with Nameste(goodday)
and ending in Danubad(thankyou) so that they would know when I started and when I finished!! Anyway they cheered so it was ok. Thing I said something about pleased to do it and it would be a step toward better human rights and peace in the world.
Just a bit more of an incentive to get to the top.Again we were feeling very positive about it all.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 9.04.07 @ 16:05pm

News from Gary::
So we were feeling very positive and then we got a bit of a blow. At
about 6pm I met Krishna for our permits fot Tibet etc. As soon as I looked at the Tibet visa I could see that it was valid from 17th April not 7th - BIG PROBLEM. It was 6pm on a friday and our flight due to leave 10am sat morning and no valid visa. There is no way we will get into China/Tibet without a visa valid from our arrival date.
They tried to sort it that night but Steve and I had resigned ourselves
that we woudnt be going to to Tibet until monday at the earliest depending on getting new visa and new flights. however we went to the airport next day in hope that our agents would be able to do something.

saturday 7th April - We got up early and went to the airport although I
felt that the packing was a waste of time. At about 9.15, with a huge sigh of relief a guy called Dinesh turned up with our Visa. We caught our flights by the skin of our teeth. The Llamas blessing must have worked.
The chinese embassy is closed on saturday but somehow they had managed
to get them to open it and amend our visa - phew!!.

Arrived Tibet and went our hotel. Lhasa is at about 3400 metres above
sea level so now we feel like we are actually doing something toward our goal Mt Everest by starting to acclimatise and our bodies starting to adjust to altitude.

Had dinner and a local show as it was actually my birthday today. Just a couple of beers and retired very relieved !!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by Dave on Monday, 9.04.07 @ 16:06pm

New from Steve ::
Today I visisted the Potala Palace with Mima (our guide) I have sent you a couple of picts. Gary and I are starting to acclimatize here and tomorrow we will be going out into the hills that surround Lhasa for a days walking. It will be nice to get out and stretch the legs. Yesterday was Gary's birthday (52) So he is officially the old man of the group and I am the young lad> Last night we had a meal and a few beers; 2 to be exact, Alcohol and altitude do not mix well!!

I think that we should be able to maintain comms with you when we leave Lhasa as Gary has his sat phone and I think we will have access to the internet at BC as well as ABC. So we will keep it going, feeling good and ready for the challenge

Posted by Dave on Monday, 9.04.07 @ 16:07pm

Monday 9th April - At last a day on the hill. We spent yesterday just
doing the tourist thing and getting used to having flown into about 3,500 metres above sea level but today, as planned a bit of an acclimatisation trek to just under 4000 mtres was the order of the day.
Weather was superb with blue skies and not much wind. We set off from
our start point and the effects of flying into to this altitude were
apparent.
Anyway we settled into a reasonable pace and got to our first summit at
about 3,800 metres within an hour. Felt good to be out. Both of our respective training regimes were paying off. Steves was training most days, avoiding alcohol (but not succeeding!! - Dave) and staying clean and lean. Gary's was max alcohol (carbo loading) and indian takeaways as often as possible - definately not going in lean!! Anyway both made good pace and felt strong.
At the top of our first interim summit we could see in the distance a perfect looking mountain peak in the distance. we looked at each other and it was, without saying too much, our next objective. It was a jagged looking peak with two summits and draped with prayer flags and apparently named "Poomba". We set off.
After about an hour we got to the last part of the ridge where it all got a lot steeper and we were continuously scrambling with bigger and bigger drops around us. The final ridge looked a challenge and it would have been nice to have had ropes!
Gary dropped his rucsac and set off. The ridge narrowed with huge exposure either side. There would no possibility of surviving a fall or slip here, he pushed on and reached the first summit and Steve followed. Steve arrived at the summit filled with adrenalin, "Everest will be no problem after that!!! " he said.
It wasn't over though. We were on the lower of the two summits and to truly climb the mountain we would have to descend into the gap between the two summits and get to the top of the main summit which we did. It was much easier than the first summit and we discovered a much much easier route up to the gap than we had done. Never mind we were rewarded by a challenging route.
We set off back down very carefully and got back to our pick up point
within an hour and a half. It had been a quality mountain day.
A bit more tourism in the old part of Lhasa, dinner and bed by 10.00 p.m

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 10.04.07 @ 09:16am

Short Message from Steve:

We are now in Sigatse ,think that's how to spell it? Here for 1 night then move on to Shegar.
Sigatse is 3800 metres above sea level so we have gained another 400 metres today, and tomorrow; we will be at 4200. we will stay at Shegar for two nights; this will give us a chance to get out into the mountains for 1 day to acclimatize more. The following day: will be the big one, up to base camp as you know is 5200 metres, so a gain of 1000 metres. Starts to get serious from there on in!
We are going to try and send you more pictures today (if possible) it's just the systems seem to get worse the further away we get from Lhasa.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 10.04.07 @ 13:12pm

Short Update 11/04/07

The crew have arrived in Shegar. Tomorrow they will climb to 4400 metres. Everyone is feeling good. Due to no internet connections in the town comms will be sporadic.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 11.04.07 @ 14:18pm

Report 13/04/07 03:00 GMT

Arrived Base Camp , good facilities. Due to leave for IC on the 16th everybody feeling great. Ready to go for it!
Steve

Posted by Dave on Friday, 13.04.07 @ 08:05am

Report in 14/04/07

Steve and Gary have been having tests to monitor O2 level in the blood, when they left Lhasa it was at 98%now at Base Camp it is 77% so the 1000 metres has made a big difference. This should increase again as the Guys adjust to the altitude. Gary has a cold which he is trying to shake off. Brian is snoring and keeping Steve awake.

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 14.04.07 @ 12:21pm

Report from Steve 15/04/07 05:13 a.m GMT :

The Internet is down the Japanes team had two of their three laptops frozen.I will send short reports by mobile whils we can and the Sattelite phone. Temperature dropped to -5 C last night went to get a drink - it was frozen! O2 measures 75% rising slowly.Headaches have gone feeling much better. I could hear Gary and Larry snoring all night.Gary still has cold so we have decided to stay at Base Camp until the 18th to give us more time to get it right, the extra days will do us good. Just finished "The ascent of Rum-Doodle" very funny indeed, Brian is reading it now!! We have sorted out Yaks to transport all the equipment to Advance Base Camp, 2 Sherpas and 13 Yaks the three Japanese have 13 Sherpas 50 Yaks! I have left messages on the blog.

Posted by Dave on Sunday, 15.04.07 @ 15:37pm

Monday 16th April 12:11 GMT

From Steve

Up earlier today as most of the high altitude gear has to be taken to advance base camp. Went for a hike up to Intermediate Camp @ 5,700 metres, judging by the pace set by Gary his cold is not troubling him much now! I was a good hike to help us acclimatise.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 16.04.07 @ 13:57pm

Report in 17/04/07 03:15 GMT

Yesterday we followed the route to IC (Intermediate Camp) and then back to Base Camp, both of us felt good and moral is high. Larry and Brian stayed at BC to do the laundry. Today is our final day here, this phase has gone well and it's now time to move on to the next one.Rest day today and then leave BC tomorrow. Next stage is the North Col via IC then ABC (Advance Base Camp). We plan on staying 2 or 3 nights at ABC and then move up to the Col. then straight back down to ABC and rest ready to go back up there. This will be a significant achievement and a huge step forward toward the ultimate prize! At this stage we are not sure if we will drop to ABC from the Col and rest there for a week to await a weather window, or maybe back down to BC. We will do whatever it takes.
Steve: as today is a rest day I am having a wash, main reason is I think I am starting to smell like a Yak, and one Yak in particular is starting to pay me too much attention so big clean up required!!. Yesterday one of the Chinese had to be carried down on the back of a Sherpa - first casualty.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 17.04.07 @ 08:55am

Check out the new Pictures on the Base Camp and Beyond and Brian and Larry galleries

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 17.04.07 @ 12:26pm

From Steve and Gary 16/04/07 l4:20 GMT

Oh Chomolungma 'Goddess Mother of the Earth' we stand here in awe gazing up at your majesty rising above the cloudless sky. We are ready for the next phase in our quest to reach your summit.We know that this test you have set out before us will allow you to see if we are worthy to grace your 'Cumbre Sagrada'. We promise to treat you with utmost respect at all times. Oh Chomolungma - today we lay out in front of you - our destiny!

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 17.04.07 @ 14:21pm

Report 18/04/07 06:30 GMT

Waiting for the rest of the equipment to be loaded and then we are off!. Another 15 minutes and the job is on, will contact as and when we can. (hopefully we can keep contact via satellite phone, but reports will be short : Dave).

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 18.04.07 @ 08:19am

No news today - was a call through the night but no connection - probably comms failure

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 19.04.07 @ 18:58pm

Report 23/04/07 @ 09:30 GMT the Group are camped near the Japanese Expedition and they had a service this morning to bless the mountain, which Steve found quite moving. He is chipper and in good fettle and they are hoping to advance to the North Col tomorrow. Communication is by satellite phone and is a bit sketchy, but we should have short daily reports to keep us informed.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 23.04.07 @ 12:03pm

Update from Gary for the 18th - one of the reports we had problems deciphering due to bad comms, however got it now :

Early start at intermediate camp and a bit of a rush to get everything ready
for the yaks and herders who wanted to leave by 8am.
We should have known it was going top be a tough day by the way we started.
It was a real haul out of intermediate camp up onto the glacier morrain.
Really had to dig deep to get to advance base camp. It didnt help to
see another chinese casualty being evacked off the mountain complete with
oxygen mask. He didnt look well!
Whereas the route to ABC was at average altitude of about 6000 metres
the scenery was outstanding. Travelling along an undulating glacier all the way we saw perfect views of Everest and Changtse.
Met a few guys on their way down having managed only one night at ABC.
Could happen to anyone.
Anyway after arrival at ABC we both recovered well and settled at the
altitude of about 6300m asl, had a good dinner and crashed.
The temperatures are a lot lower here with my p** bottle having frozen
by morning. Lucky we were'nt going anywhere or I would have had to carry
it!!!!
We now intend to spend 3 to 4 days resting here and getting used to the
altitude of around 6300m. We had spent 5 days at BC hanging around and now
after 2 days of workout probably another 5 here. I must say there is
far to much time to do nothing but think here!
I am reading "7 Years in Tibet" and Steve is reading something about
how to become a Buddhist monk the easy way!!! I think that must help him with his power naps.
Will update again over the next few days.
The intention is to go for the North Col in about 5 days although we hear
the weather pattern may mean we have to wait a week.
The North Col looks specacular!!!

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 24.04.07 @ 07:56am

Report from Friday 20/04/07 06:39 GMT

Bit of a lazy start today.
By the time we had breakfast at around 9.30 our Tibetan sherpa had had
to descend to BC because of extreme headaches and our cook Tashi wasn't at
all well. Pleased he didnt descend though - breakfast was good.
Both Steve and Gary felt good at the altitude and strong. Our appetites
were a good measure of how well we were acclimatising.
Very restful day.
During the evening Gary brought up his thoughts about having far too much
time to think here and that he was thinking of going back. We chatted
about it and would talk more in the morning.
For the first time Gary did not sleep well that night.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 24.04.07 @ 08:05am

Report 20/04/07 06:25 GMT

Again a rest day.
Gary had been up early and our discussion of the previous night
continued. We talked awhile and Steve understood Gary's thoughts and it was agreed Gary would return to BC, Kathmandu and home to deal with outstanding business issues. There was no problem with climbing the mountain but the amount of idle time was more difficult to deal with.Gary packed and left by 1pm.
The parting was emotional.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 24.04.07 @ 08:08am

Report 24/04/07 06:46 GMT

A Message from Gary :

Big mountains and big expeditions. The thing is they give you time, far too much time. Time that you dont have at home to think about and understand whats really going on around you. When in our busy daily routines do we have 4 or 5 days of time at a time to just think. To think about where we are, where we are going and how we created the mess we got ourselves into in the first place!!!
OK - this IS enforced time due to the nature of what we are doing. It is however real and enforces the opportunity to truly think and maybe
understand ourselves. As far as I know there are very very few pastimes that can do this.
For me these days of time have made me realise that,for business reasons for family and friends, once again, I am in the wrong place at the wrong time.
My confidence and reservations were at loggerheads. On the one hand my
confidence in my ability to climb this mountain and the other my reservations over my being away for another 5 or 6 weeks.
I have therefore, rather painfully and with Steves agreement, come to the conclusion that, at this time, my attempt to win the favour of this
mountain goddess must wait until both her and I are at one with ourselves and each other.
It is now refreshing to think that, with no exped commitments for
atleast a year, I now do have "the time" to consolidate and work toward, one day, being at her side again.
So what now. My thoughts and hopes must be with Steve. I know he is
both capable and worthy of the challenge of this summit.
In ways he now has a far better chance of success than before. He now has two very strong sherpa's at hand, Pasang and Lila who will be at his side all the way.
Though difficult our parting was Steve knows that I am also with him all the way to the summit.
I think and hope we will be friends for life.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 24.04.07 @ 08:16am

Report from Steve 24/04/07 11:40 GMT

Satellite transmissions very patchy, they have just returned from the North Col after leaving some equipment up there. They intend to return in three days and set up camp on the Col and from there head for Camp 2 at 7500 metres, which is the start of the "high camps". Steve is tired but in good spirits and is very optimistic. The ropes were busy on the way up as the two other expeditions were moving at the same time and they had a jolly time crossing a crevasse on a ladder!!. Steve is about to break into his secret rations!! he says he is a little sick of lentils and rice.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 24.04.07 @ 11:47am

Report from Steve 25/04/07 12:00 GMT

I had my first bad night on the mountain last night, I awoke in the early hours because I could not breath. I was struggling to catch any breath at all and started to panic a little, at one point I was trying so hard to get my breath I thought I would swallow the tent. After a while I remembered that Jenny had told me using a large pillow and sitting up helps sometimes. I rearranged myself as best I could and the next thing I new I was waking at breakfast time! I was very worried thinking that if I can't manage this at 6500 metres how will I get further up. I talked to some of the guys and was assured that what had occurred was a normal part of acclimatisation and it would pass. I checked my O2 level and it was 84% and now I felt better, I was so relieved I had a few lip biting moments in the tent. We are just having R&R for a couple of days before moving up to the North Col to make a camp.

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 26.04.07 @ 09:39am

Report from Steve 27/04/07 11:20 GMT

In great spirits, had an excellent nights sleep, left the tent doors open and got good through flow only to wake up covered in frost and slightly chilly. Went for a walk up toward the North Col yesterday and met an American who I talked to about my experience with the breathing problem, she said that if I had been taking Diamox it probably would not have occurred. I don't want to get into the Diamox regime as I prefer to let my body sort itself out. Brian is having no problems. Cannot move today as the weather is bad so we will see what tomorrow is like. Was invited to dinner last night by a group from 7summitsclub.com which was a great experience, in the group are several Russians who have done all the 8000's excepte Everest without oxygen!! they look like they eat Yeti's for breakfast. I would just like to express some regret that Michael Minchella's profits will have fallen since I left, but I want to reassure you Michael they will rise rapidly when I get back. What wouldn't I do for a cup of your coffee now. As a lastlittle point can anyone tell me why Iridium Sattelite phones always cut out when you need them the most??
Regards to all
Steve

Posted by Dave on Friday, 27.04.07 @ 11:34am

Report From Steve 28/04/07 13:30 GMT

Weather much better today left for the North Col to set up camp. Arrived after four and a half hours absolutely wrecked. Today I have had to take an aspirin for the first time although I think the headache was due more to dehydration than altitude as the water was freezing all the time. We have now set up the tent were we will stay tonight and if the weather is good tomorrow we will head up to 7/7 which we can see from here. After that we will probably drop all the way down to Base Camp for some R&R before coming back up and awaiting a weather window. For some reason the Sat Comms have improved at this height.
Regards
Steve

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 28.04.07 @ 13:43pm

Report from Steve 29/04/07 14:00 GMT

Got up to 7500 metres today and we are feeling had good visiblity could see a lot! Moved back down to the North Col where we will spend the night before heading down to ABC and then to BC where we plan to spend a week re-charging before moving back up and awaiting the weather window. I have lost a lot of weight so I am looking forward to getting back to BC for some decent food. Also I should be back in mobile range again for a while. The Sherpa's have given me the nickname of "The English Tiger" not bad for a Shields lad eh!. Will touch base again at ABC just to let you know we are back safely.
P.S Brian is having a great time!.
Regards
Steve

Posted by Dave on Sunday, 29.04.07 @ 14:05pm

Report from Steve 30/04/07 11:20 GMT

Back down at ABC it took us two and a half hours from the North Col including quite a hairy muti-pitch abseil. We spent the last two night at 7000 metres and on the first night one of the Sherpas (Lila) jumped bolt upright in the middle of the night fighting for breath - exactly as it had happened to me at ABC, so I got him to do the same procedure and he settled down, then low and behold last night the same happened to the other one!! And you think the Sherpas are invincible, but it happens to them too.
Tomorrow we move back to Base Camp for maybe a week to rebuild the reserves before making the push back up the mountain.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 30.04.07 @ 11:30am

Report from Steve 01/05/07 12:00 GMT

Arrived back at base camp first thing food we were starving. On the way down we met a guy carrying a huge drum of petrol up to ABC, I asked him why didn't he use a Yak, his reply was that Yaks were to expensive - he was cheaper! It's Buddhas birthday today so we are celebrating by burning joss sticks and eating homemade pizza (east meets west). Brian has been very quiet since Larry left, he asked him to stay but he would not leave Gary. We seemed to have a time when we didn't communicate at all, but everything is fine now we are back at BC.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 2.05.07 @ 08:34am

News in 02/05/07 13:25

Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev the two Russians (Kazakstanis) that Steve met reached summit of Everest on the 30th April The two climbers launched a summit push from 7,900m @ 10 p.m.on the 29th They topped-out with no supplementary O2 or Sherpa support.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 2.05.07 @ 13:25pm

Spoke to Steve @ 03/05/07 12:30 GMT and he is feeling good, now that he is getting some "proper" food down him. He has been spending some time with the 7summits club and while he was there the two Kazakhstani guys returned from the summit where they had to spend the night at 8300 metres without any equipment food or water but had managed to find an empty tent left by the Chinese, a little uncomfortable don't you think. They are going to start out on Monday back up the mountain as it is rumoured in the camp that the weather is going to get better, so we will keep our fingers crossed. Steve is really positive and is looking forward to getting the attempt going.

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 3.05.07 @ 12:54pm

Call from Steve 04/05/07 14:00 GMT

Krishna took me and Brian down to Tent City near the Rongbuk Monastery last night for a bit of a change it was a mixture of tea rooms, shops and "doss" houses but very colourful. Had a few drinks and returned to the billet. Can't wait for Monday to come now to get moving back up to ABC.

Posted by Dave on Friday, 4.05.07 @ 14:04pm

Message from Steve 05/05/07 09:10 GMT

had Yak curry for the first time today, I have to say it was not bad. They told me that the meat was 1 year old dried I must admit to a bit of wind following the meal!. 13:21 GMT and I have just spilled a full mug of tea into my sleeping bag and the sun has just gone down. Looks like I'll be sleeping in my down suit tonight-I hope it's sunny tomorrow!!

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 5.05.07 @ 19:25pm

Reports from Steve 07/05/07 12:00 GMT

Pathe News Flash:
Looks like we may be stuck at BC until 9th Sherpas unable to set up camp at 8,3 due to bad weather. Hasta the ABC cook has had to come down due to altitude sickness which leaves no one there the Sherpas will try agin tomorrow if the weather is favourable, at least the food is good here and someone to cook it -- Oh Well!

Posted by Dave on Monday, 7.05.07 @ 18:11pm

Reports from Steve 07/05/07 12:00 GMT

Just been for a walk and visited the Memorial Park it's very sobering there so many names, one from last year named Scott. Its rumoured that the weather is to improve from the 11th to the 14th so it would be advantageous if we could be in place by then. The Japanes are hoping to make the push at the same time. We need to move soon as supplies are starting to run out at BC - gas,petrol,frsh food - everyone is anxious to get moving.


At least the extended stay at BC has given me the chance to eat well and plenty of fresh food, I am feeling strong. Going for walks just to fill in the time. The Chinese just sent up another weather balloon, I think they must be testing some kind of secret weapon!!

Great News:
Krishan has just informed me that the sherpas have managed to get 8,3 in place Lilla managed it ok but Pasang had to drop back down nor sure why yet but they must have had a very hard time up there in those conditions.
Pemba Dorje will try for the summit tomorrow with the UN Flags, he is actually at 8,3 now some fella!!!!

Posted by Dave on Monday, 7.05.07 @ 18:22pm

Report From Steve 08/05/07 08:15 GMT

Today met two cyclists that we met in Kathmandu they started off from Singapore six months ago and have now arrived here at BC. Had a really great conversation with them, may see them again tomorrow - everybody looks and smells the same now!. The Chinese have sent up another weather balloon - they must have got a job lot on them. Today will be the last chance of using the mobiles, it will be satellite from here on. I will try to contact with a report from ABC tomorrow and then after a couple of days, we are headed up to the North Col depending on the weather. Pemba was on the summit today.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 8.05.07 @ 12:57pm

Report from Steve 09/05/07 15:00 GMT

Arrived at ABC after an 8 hour "slog" the difference in temperature from BC to here is stunning it's absolutely freezing. However we are here and settled in. I think I will need two days to recover before moving up to the North Col, I'll see how I feel tomorrow. Krishna is confident that we can make it if the weather stays ok. Contact you tomorrow and let you know what is happening.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 9.05.07 @ 15:09pm

Report from Steve 10/05/07 10:00 GMT

Lying in tent thoroughly bored, Krishna has confirmed that unless the weather changes we will go on the 12th to the North Col and on to 7/8 on the 13th where the supplementary oxygen is stashed. Weather reports for the 14th are very favourable at the moment so with luck we should be in a position to make a summit attempt sometime after midnight on the 14th. It has been decided that we will (the Japanese team and our team) all go together.

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 10.05.07 @ 10:10am

Wednesday, 17 Chinese climbers reached the summit of Everest early in the morning. That brings the total number of people (that I am aware of) who've climbed the North Ridge to the summit this season to 26. The Chinese got up ahead of predicted high winds that are scheduled to hit today and last a couple of days.

Posted by Dave on Friday, 11.05.07 @ 08:15am

Report from Steve 11/05/07 13:00 GMT

Been snowing heavily on the mountain today but Krishna is confident that we will move out tomorrow and head for the North Col. The Chinese have all moved off the mountain now and things are quite quiet here at ABC. I have been talking at length today to a British-born mountaineer called Ian Woodall. Nine years ago Ian was in an Everest attempt when he and some associates came across the frozen pathetic figure of American Francys Arsentiev only 800ft below the summit, she barely had strentgh to speak but her last words would stay with them for the rest of their lives: "Don't leave me," she begged. In the treacherous terrain of the world's highest mountain, and in temperatures below minus 30C, they had little choice.
They stayed with her for as long as they could before abandoning their summit attempt and heading back down for help.
Ian Woodall is leading a new expedition to provide a poignant last chapter to a tragedy that continues to haunt the mountain into the next millennium. He will wrap her in an American flag, lay her to rest within sight of the summit she had earlier conquered, and cover her with a cairn of stones and boulders to shield her body from view. He is also hoping to bury David Sharp who died on the mountain last May if he can find the body.
I would like to thank Ian for leaving me some rations and chocolate as we are are running a little short.

Posted by Dave on Friday, 11.05.07 @ 13:21pm

Report from Steve 12/05/07 14:00 GMT

Arrived at North Col it is excruciatingly cold, when we were coming up we had to wait at certain points and I really felt the cold nipping, especially in my fingers. I have plenty of spare clothing and I have the feeling I will be needing it. There was a count today of approximately 60 tents on the North Col, although lots of the people here are in their first acclim. stage and will be heading down rather than up. The clothes we are wearing now we will be wearing for at least the next four days so I'm glad I don't have any close neighbours! Tomorrow we will go up to 7/8 where the oxygen is stashed and if the weather is favourable we will make the push from there. Lots of people using oxygen on the North Col which gives me a little more confidence as I feel fine. Brian is not sure about the smell in the tent.

Dave: I have had reports in the last day or two that many people are trying to summit at the same time as Steve. There are reports that 150 people have returned to BC after acclim. but Steve & Co are well ahead of this.
I have mailed everestnews.com and mounteverest.net but it seems unless your a star they don't want to know. It's funny but I know that feeling.

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 12.05.07 @ 20:43pm

Report from Steve 13/05/07 14:00 GMT


Up at 7/8 now have every peice of clothing I have on and still freezing. Did not sleep well last night and as a consequence was very listless this morning. Hoping tonight will be better as we now have the oxygen supply and will sleep aided with oxygen. Tomorrow we are going for 8/3 and if all goes well and weather permitting we shall make the summit bid from there. Having great difficulty eating as at this height, you just don't seem to have any appetite ( Thats a first Steve : Dave ) so just drinking lots of tea and water and tryng to force down what food I can. I will call in from 8/3 tomorrow if I am coherent enough. Weather reports are good.

Posted by Dave on Sunday, 13.05.07 @ 17:27pm

Very intermittent report from Steve 14/05/07 @ 12:15 GMT

We are now at 8300 metres having taken 6 hours to cover the 500 metres from 7/8 slept well on oxygen last night but I am tired when not using it. We are going to try for the summit after 10:00 tonight and we are planning on maybe 9 hours. It will be absolutely terrific if we can do this, although I know it is going to be tremendously hard work.

Posted by Dave on Monday, 14.05.07 @ 12:26pm

No news as yet but from reports over 50 people have summited today and a similar number are waiting to go there have been no accidents and no injuries.

Posted by Dave on Tuesday, 15.05.07 @ 20:01pm

Report form Steve 16/05/07 02:30 a.m We left 8/3 later than planned as there were so many people on the move we thought it better to wait a while. It was a hard long struggle and on the way we stopped to pay our respects at the body of Francys Arsentiev. We pushed on to 8700 and the weather was OK when there was an incident involving a Japanese girl in front of us. At that point we did not think it proper or respectful to carry on so after some discussion we decided to return to 8/3 and call it a day we returned to 8/3 in a whiteout so obviously it may have been dangerous to carry on anyway. I am calling Dave from 8/3 were we will have some food and a rest then pack up and make our way down.

DAVE: I am not yet able to give firm details about the Japanese Girl , as comms were a little broken up and Steve was clearly upset. I will try to post them as and when they come in.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 16.05.07 @ 09:53am

I have not spoken to Steve since early this morning and can find no reference to any problems on the mountain with a Japanese girl - there is however a report of a 62 year old Japanese man who died on the way from the summit - It may be that something was lost in comms, I will need to speak with him again to corroborate what was said.

Dave

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 16.05.07 @ 18:37pm

Report from Steve 17/05/07 07:00


We are back at ABC and will stay here today and head down to Base Camp tomorrow where hopefully communications will be better, it has been very difficult using the satellite comms as at best they are very sketchy. People will be asking why I did not go for the top after coming within 125 (vertical) metres. I can only say that after the fatality the top did not seem so important and ethically I felt it would not be the right and proper thing to do, to carry on.


DAVE: I think I can now say that the fatality referred to was that of Japanese climber Yoshitomi Okura who died after reaching the summit. Communications are still so bad that there may be more than this but it will have to wait until I can confirm this for sure. There is currently a great furore in the mountain climbing world about "Summit Madness" and the fact that people are being literally stepped over when they are in difficulty in bids to reach the summit. I think that the ethics displayed by Steve and the crew are of the highest order and I applaud his moral correctness. More Later......

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 17.05.07 @ 08:42am

Report from Steve 18/05/07 14:00 GMT

Got back safely to Base Camp and it feels good although I must admit to feeling a little sad. There is lots to say and lots to think about but first things first some rest.For some unearthly reason I can smell seaweed
speak later.....


Dave: We think a wash and change of Underwear might cure that Steve.

Posted by Dave on Friday, 18.05.07 @ 17:59pm

Sorry for the tardy update folks Cup Final an all that and a heavy night in the Ship


Report from Steve 19/05/07 06:30 GMT

Just had a shave and and washed the mop in the snow outside. I have to wait at BC for for three night before travelling to Kathmandu two days by road fantastic!!!!. Just when you want to be home typical. I have got the urge to do some steps ha ha! I think I'm spending to much time in this tent.

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 19.05.07 @ 20:34pm

Folks an apology for incorrect information. The Japanese who died on Everest was not Yoshitomi Okura, in fact he was the team leader the name of the dead man is as yet unrevealed.

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 19.05.07 @ 20:41pm

This news from http://www.alanarnette.com/alan/everest2007.php

Yesterday I'd reported base camp hearsay that a Japanese woman was in a critical condition in a high camp on Everest. Russell assures me that despite grave predictions, she pulled through, was helped down the mountain and is OK at ABC.

Posted by Dave on Saturday, 19.05.07 @ 22:10pm

Report from Steve 21/05/07 06:00 GMT


Well the final day has arrived the guys are packing the gear up here at base camp, while the rest of the team are coming down from ABC with the high altitude gear. We are scheduled to leave at 04:30 tomorrow with an overnight in Janmau before arriving in Kathmandu if there are internet facilities available I will post from there .... Steve

Posted by Dave on Monday, 21.05.07 @ 08:06am

Message from Steve 23/05/07 04:40 GMT

We have just arrived at the Nepalese border - Friendship Bridge - and we are waiting for the transport to Kathmandu and a bath! Oh Yes!. Brian is fine he has just gamely struggled on through all the adversity, I have sent a picture of him approaching the summit of everest, Dave will put it on the gallery.

Posted by Dave on Wednesday, 23.05.07 @ 08:23am

As you may have read on the blog Steve is on his way home now .... so I guess that is the end of this episode. I would like to thank you all for visiting and Supporting Steve in the adventure

Dave

Posted by Dave on Thursday, 24.05.07 @ 18:58pm